Time in the Bisti Badlands

I haven’t posted in a while, but its not been due to getting stuck on my couch. In addition to revisiting some favorite hikes that have already been posted here, I’ve been visiting the Bisti Badlands as often as possible and exploring a type of terrain that is new to me far underground.

The Bisti/De-Na-Zin is a 41,000 acre wilderness area south of Farmington, NM. I haven’t written about the hikes in this area because there really aren’t any established trails and frankly, I like it that way. This stunning ancient river delta holds seemingly unending areas to explore and photograph, but isn’t the best place for those with a bad sense of direction or no experience in navigation. The hills and formations are also not to be underestimated and the ease with which an unwary hiker could become stuck or injured is significant. On the other hand, many of the formations themselves are extremely fragile and could be easily injured by the careless.

Chris_Nail_Bisti_9

If you know your basic navigation skills and can keep one eye on where you put your boots while taking in the sights, this area is well worth the visit. When planning a trip, be sure to visit the BLM website and familiarize yourself with the rules and regulations. There are no restroom facilities at either parking lot and no water is available. The area is most popular in the Spring and Fall, but I’ve enjoyed hiking there during both the summer and winter months as well. The lack of vegetation and light colored soil makes the area feel like a reflector oven, which is nice in the winter, but not so pleasant in the summer. If you do venture out during the winter months, be sure to pack extra layers as the temperature tends to plummet after the sun goes down.

Chris_Nail_Bisti_3

There are some well known formations such as “The Alien Hatchery” that can easily be found on the internet, but maps for these places are scarce to non-existant. Many people who visit this area regularly are secretive about the best locations and delicate formations in order to protect them. I put myself in this category…thus I’m not even including directions in this post. If you do choose to visit this area, please help keep it wild!

Chris_Nail_Bisti_6

 

 

First Miles on the CDT.

One of the hardest parts of starting any long term project, even one that you are excited about, is actually starting the project. As I discussed in a previous post “A Grand Idea for a Walk” I’ve been thinking about hiking the Continental Divide Trail in sections for some time now. I’ve been worried that this 3100 mile long doosey of a long term project would languish in the preparation stage for years and ultimately collapse under its own weight. The trail doesn’t always lend itself to dropping a car somewhere, hiking a small section and then returning quickly. Setting up a vehicle shuttle isn’t always ideal either. The west is once again very dry this summer, fires are springing up everywhere and fire restrictions and forest closures are slowly tightening. All in all, these aren’t the ideal conditions I would choose for even weekend back packing, let alone the multiple days some sections lend themselves too. On top of all that, despite hiking all the time, its been a while since I had the weight of a backpacking load on my shoulders! In spite of all these reasons to stay home, or perhaps because of them, last weekend I roped in a backpacking partner, her dog and the dog she was watching for the weekend, found a short section that wouldn’t be too difficult and knocked out a beautiful first 7.5 miles of the trail!

Hopewell Lake and its nearby campground are located in Carson National Forest between Tres Piedras and Tierra Amarilla off of Highway 64. Although we wouldn’t be staying the night in the campground, it served as our base and we were fortunate to get a spot right next to the campsite host, a very friendly lady with equally outgoing and curious dogs, a healer and dachshund. I’d left word with family as to our intended route and schedule, but its never a bad idea to leave that information with more than one person so we talked over our plans with the host as well, who was excited to hear about our trek. We shouldered our packs, checked the map, set a waypoint for the campground and set off. Andrea, her dog Doc and Otis whom Andrea was watching for the weekend and I set off down Forrest Road 42B to the south and began to tick off some miles. A number of attractive camping sites popped up all along the road and if we return to take the trail north, we may use one of these free sites!

More than half of our distance followed the 42B which, for the first day, had a gentle, predominantly downhill slope. Walking downhill under a light cloud cover made for cool, easy hiking and we made quick progress. Free roaming range cattle are a frequent sight along the road and despite Doc’s natural instincts as a cow dog, Andrea’s training kept him right by her side. I’ve had less than stellar experiences hiking with my own dogs in the past, but Andrea’s skill at training Doc made hiking with him a real joy! Along the way we not only encountered plenty of cattle, but signs of deer and elk. When we stopped for lunch at a particularly beautiful bend in the road which overlooked a valley, we were listening to the cattle call back and forth when the unmistakable high pitched call of an elk range through the valley. Being nowhere near the rut, I hadn’t expected to hear any elk on this trip and it served as a delightful surprise! Andrea and I listened for several minutes as the call rang out several more times over the next ten minutes. Doc and Otis remained unimpressed, working to find cooler spots in the dirt and eyeing our lunch.

As we began to hike down and into this valley to the east, I kept checking and rechecking our position on the map (I’m sure driving Andrea nuts in the process) to make sure we didn’t miss where we were to turn south onto some smaller winding trails. Just as I was beginning to think that we had to right on top of the turn, we saw the first CDT trail marker of the day, right where it needed to be! As the trail went from maintained forest road to rough unmaintained road and into single track, the blue trail markers always appeared at just the right spot to make sure the correct path was easy to find. Based on an admittedly small section of trail, I have to say that the folks working on the CDT have done an amazing job of putting up just enough markers to make the route very clear without throwing them up on every tree! The “T” in the CDT marker forms an arrow that indicates the direction the hiker should take. Seeing that first marker made me nearly giddy! Not because I was unsure of where we were, but because it was the first time I had seen it out on a trail…it connected that spot to all the others hundreds of miles to the south and thousands of miles to the north.

In the area we intended to camp there were several reliable water sources marked on the map. In roughly the first spot we came across a neon green and brown cattle pond that I’m certain owed at least 1/3 of its volume to what the cattle had given back to the pond! At this point we got a little concerned regarding our water supply, but as there were supposed to be several more sources farther on we didn’t worry too much. Doc lapped water from the cattle pond, happy for the added flavor. Hiking through the forest we passed a few more CDT markers before we broke onto a small road amongst some small meadows and aspen groves. To our southwest we saw the boundary fence of a small private preserve and to the southeast a line of lush greenery came into view. The road ran into the preserve and short section of trail with blue painted rocks ran towards the greenery and crossed a small clear stream that did not run from the cattle pond. Doc and Otis both happily drank their fill. Near the creek crossing was a high flat area dotted with large healthy pines and we decided that it would make an excellent spot to camp for the night.

Our camp proved to be a nice spot for the night. Otis found a dead ground squirrel. With the rodent clamped in his maw he happily trotted into camp to show it off. Otis, who until now had been a very quiet dog, began barking at what we could only imagine were birds in the grass. He did this often, but as Doc was ignoring him, so did we. As it got dark, Otis seemed more and more nervous and found more things to nervously bark at. Again Doc seemed uninterested. We hung our bear bag away from camp and settled into the tent for the night, dogs and all. Doc quickly took a liking to my sleeping bag and spent most of the night on my feet. Otis stared nervously out of the window, flicking his head back and forth at every noise and slowly tried to either shove Andrea off of her sleeping pad or sleep on her face. Out of the dozen or so times I woke up during the night, only once was Otis not staring out the window in wide eyed doggie nervousness. Doc worked to shove me to the side of the tent and on a few occasions woke both Andrea and I as he tried to quietly crawl to the head of the tent in search of better snuggling conditions.

We awoke the next morning, as it often is on public lands, to small group of cattle next to our tent. Otis being sleepy and scared asked them to move away with a series of polite WOOF’s. Several times Otis had to provide this service before we had camp broken. Apparently we were on some of the good grass. After breakfast and caffeine, we pumped water into our bottles, shouldered our packs and started back up the trail.

In addition to the second day being almost entirely uphill (you always pay for those long stretches of downhill!) the weather was very different. Where the first day had been cool and cloudy, the second day was clear and hot. The heat slowed us a bit, but the dogs felt it the worst. We stopped more frequently to water them and let them lay in the shade to cool off. Otis, who had a pack, slowed the most. We stopped for lunch close to the same place under a large pine that provided ample shade for the dogs to lounge in until they were no longer panting, but cool and happy. As we rounded the bend we had lunched at the day before to head north we heard the first roll of distant thunder and the dark clouds that had been obscured by a ridge to the north. Not wanting to get stuck out in a thunderstorm, we picked up our pace and made for the campground. We never did see any rain while on the trail, but we did get the occasional cool breeze or few minutes of cloud cover, which the dogs especially enjoyed! I took Otis’s pack once he started to seem especially worn out.

We made it back to the campground ahead of the storms to an enthusiastic greeting from the campsite host, who was very happy we had a safe and enjoyable trip. Upon returning to Santa Fe, we dropped off the dogs and went for BBQ, because everything tastes extra good after hiking or back packing!

I now have 3092.5 miles left to go. I learned in this trip that it may be better to hike some sections first and then return to photograph areas that interest me, rather than trying to photograph every step. The important thing however is that the journey has been started. Its always that first step which is hardest. A few lines from Tolkien float to mind on occasions like this. They go something like “Be careful Frodo my lad! It’s a dangerous business going out your door in the morning. When you put your foot on the road, you never know to where it will whisk you away!”